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    新男裝設計師作品

    2024-01-11 2176 0
    對于Iniye Tokyo James來說,過去兩年就像坐過山車一樣。作為一個品牌,我們一直在追求眾所周知的火爆時刻。這一路走來并不容易,但我們一直在努力,他說到這段時期,他獲得了2022年路威酩軒獎(LVMH Prize)的提名,并在《墻紙》(Wallpaper) 2022年9月刊的新男裝設計師作品集中看到了他的特色。這位尼日利亞裔英國設計師于2015年創立了自己的同名品牌;他的目的是讓自己的遺產在視覺上有意義,并提出兩個看似對立的地點之間的對話。衣服有不成文的溝通方式。當我剛開始的時候,這是關于表現;為從未真正有過發言權的創作者發聲。詹姆斯最出名的或許是他的裁縫,他將薩維爾街的精準與植根于尼日利亞的紡織品、調色板、輪廓和圖案融合在一起;想想看,單排扣的蕾絲運動上衣和用復雜的爬行動物、兩棲動物和昆蟲刺繡的外套。正是這些細微的差別,讓我們都熱愛,讓我們走到一起。他說。Tokyo James是New Blooms’ New Blooms’的一部分,New Blooms’是六個嶄露頭角的男裝品牌重新播種時尚版圖的概況;《墻紙》雜志2022年9月刊(W*281)拉各斯的工作室還展示了一個地下人才孵化器,擁有下一代設計師、攝影師、造型師和一個另類模特經紀公司,所有人都在這里以不同的能力運作。

     
    For Iniye Tokyo James, the last two years have been a rollercoaster. ‘As a brand we have been going for the proverbial hot minute. It hasn’t been an easy ride, but we keep pushing,’ he says of the period, which peaked with a nomination for the 2022 LVMH Prize, and sees him feature in our portfolio of emerging menswear designers in the September 2022 Style Issue of Wallpaper*.The Nigerian-British designer founded his eponymous line in 2015; his aim was to make visual sense of his own heritage and propose a dialogue between two seemingly opposing locations. ‘Clothes have unwritten ways of communicating. When I initially started it was about representation; giving a voice to a sector of creators who never really had a voice.’James is perhaps best known for his tailoring, which melds Savile Row precision with textiles, palettes, silhouettes, and motifs that are rooted in Nigeria – think single-breasted blazers in corded lace and coats finished with intricate embroidery of reptiles, amphibians and insects. ‘It is those little nuances that we all love and bring us together,’ he says.New menswear: Tokyo James A/W 2022 Tokyo James is part of ‘New Blooms’, a profile of ‘six budding menswear labels resowing the fashion landscape’ in Wallpaper’s September 2022 Style Issue (W*281)A visit to James’ studio in Lagos also reveals an underground talent incubator with next-generation designers, photographers, stylists and an alternative modelling agency, all operating in various capacities from the premises. ‘We have always been about community-building. For us, luxury is an emotion but more importantly, it is about people.’

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